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Murray
23rd January 2010, 08:29
I thought it might be useful to start a discussion re Grow Bed Media....Which is best? .....Is there a best?.....What types can be used.
Here is an old post of mine (in part) that serves as a starter.

Re: What is the best grow-bed media?
These questions resulted in some interesting and diverse responses. What I got from those responses was that the most important issue in grow beds is stability, both in temperature and biology. .......
I believe that to be true no matter what media is used or what depth of grow bed is used. Stability for the system as a whole is very important and is a factor in long term success and ease of operation.

That was the general position of those who favoured 300mm (or deeper beds).....and it was limited to gravel or clay pebble media.

Gravel and/or clay pebbles are the most commonly used grow bed media, but there are many more types of media that's for sure.
Gravel because it is low cost, readily available and it works. Clay pebbles, mainly because they look nice and are easy to work with. Some folk who live in apartments for example, just have no way of getting ordinary gravel.

I was the first (in this group anyway) to attempt to grow plants aquaponically in Coco peat. I was told it would not work.

It did, and very well, except for the fact that it discoloured the water returning to the fish tank. In fact after a few weeks the water took on the colour of very strong coffee.
I experimented with several different flood and drain methods.
The one that worked the best was a one way system where just enough fish tank water was added to wet the bed with no water draining out the bottom. This overcame the discolouration problem, as I was not returning the water to the fish tank.
It was a bit too labour intensive because I did not have a good timing device at that time that would have enabled me to automate the process.
I have not bothered with it since.

I grew carrots and potatoes and a variety of salad plants. They all grew very well. I have photos of that particular bed. I will dig them up later and post them up here.
It is far more risk averse than a gravel/clay pebble grow bed - it can last for several days without additional water.
In a conventional flood and drain aquaponics system there would be serious problems with the rest of the system if no water movement had happened for several days. The plants would be fine, but the fish would most likely be dead.
I imagine the above statement pre supposes that the grow bed's in question would be satellite grow beds that are watered by the use of a timer or by hand and not part of the regular cycle of the aquaponics system. If that is the case then coco peat or similar media would be an excellent choice for the grow bed in question.

In fact any concoction for a grow media is possible because the water is not being recirculated in the aquaponics system. Some members on this forum use water from the fish tank to water their regular dirt garden, with good results.

Auto pots come to mind as another alternate to the standard aquaponics model.

The standard aquaponics model pre supposes recirculating, as aquaponics in modern times has come out of recirculating aquaculture and recirculating hydroponics. Obviously there are variations to that model.

The best media is the one you can most easily get and afford, and the particular aquaponics model you wish to follow.

dufflight
23rd January 2010, 08:40
I like gravel or river rock for the bulk of the media and clay for the top 50 to 100mm.

fishfood
23rd January 2010, 09:12
I like gravel or river rock for the bulk of the media and clay for the top 50 to 100mm.
Me too
Best there is no best ,best is what works best in your system remember all systems are different AND as systems age they change again
I have beds here 2 1/2 years old 20 mm scoria the first year 1 metre high tomatoes had a root ball as big as a milk crate this year 1 metre high tomatoes have a root ball as big as a rockmellon all plants now have smaller root balls
As far as best i have an experimentle bed with 4 divisions all get watered the same all drain the same it has vemiculite hydrotron 20 mm scoria 7 mm bluemetal you plant 4 plants in there and 4 plants all grow the same [its empty at the moment but i will plant some plants in there and show photos as it grows ]
i also had a bed of straight vemiculite for 2 years grew some wonderfull crops but after 2 years it started getting past the filtering barrier and was getting into the fish tanks [so i dug it into the wicking beds ] that bed is now 20 mm scoria and hydrotron

DaveOponic
24th January 2010, 02:17
I agree with dufflight on this. I would love to use clay to fill up all my beds but it is expensive and hard to come by in Brunei. I only ever had one supplier, cheap as chips, made in China, four dollars a bag.... no more supply. Haven't seen it sold here for over six months except in supermarkets 300g bags, wouldn't fill a saucepan!

I got the idea for gravel from this forum... or rather the old Aquaponics HQ . . . gravel cost me a hernia and an operation . . . now I have to pay someone to lift it for me... but it works. Shallow gravel? Shallow clay balls? I'm sceptical.. Lots of limitations to going too shallow. My half drums are around 300mm - anyway... size doesn't matter does it? It's what you can do with it.


dave

Gratilla
3rd April 2011, 11:52
I have half a dozen concrete drainage channels on my plot (average: depth 50cm, width 80cm, length 10m) and am planning on using them for F&D aquaponics. Question though, what medium to use? Some thoughts on what I have available:

Gravel (cheap, but more expensive than rice husks): Heavy and, perhaps more importantly, being just 7 degrees south of the equator (ie tropical), sunny days can make stone uncomfortably hot to the touch.
Rice Husks (10 cents/sack): Currently in short supply (due to the extended rainy season - global warming?) and our chook coops get priority. Drainage? Slow?
Saw Dust/Shavings (free): Drainage? Slow?
Coconut Husks (free): Need to pull apart the husk halves. Drainage? Slow?
Pumice (???): My current favourite. Light, drains quickly, stays wet longer than gravel, contains air pockets, not as hot as gravel. I can pick this up for free (assuming I put a zero value on my time) from the beach 50m from our front door, but only a (small) plantpotful per couple of hours beach-combing. I've heard though that there is a beachful a $3 water "taxi" ride away. If there is no downside to pumice, I think I will check this out (with a dozen empty sacks). One thing though, pumice floats, so might need a mesh covering if I flood (rather than just spray).

Castaway
3rd April 2011, 12:41
Hi Gratilla, My preference would be to go for gravel (pH neutral) over your other options as it has proven to work for years and stands up to the test of time. I would avoid organic things like Rice Husks or Sawdust which I imagine will eventually break down, clog and complicate things for you down the track. Remember the KISS principle - but experiment by all means...new discoveries are always welcome.

mraquaponics
3rd April 2011, 12:54
I would and do recommend to people the media that I use.

-It is called (at the supplyer) 20mm 'Drainage gravel'.
-Cost about $40.00 per cubic meter (ie. $20.00 for a 6x4 trailer load)
-Its basically crushed volcanic rock (a bit like scoria but not all red, some is blue/black like normal chrushed rock) but its much lighter as its verry 'bubbly' like an aero bar (choc-bar)!
Benifits in my opinion are;
-Cheap
-Light weight
-Coarse (well draining)
-WAY more surface area for the bacteria and roots (because the surface area is 'bubbly') so more effective area for the good stuff to happen!
-Small holes/bubbles in the rocks grab small particles and small seeds (dirrect seeding)

I've used it for quite a while and I think its perfect...

I would add... If I could justify the cost, I would add 80-100mm of expanded clay balls to the top, just for ease of planting... but this is not a huge issue...

mraquaponics
3rd April 2011, 13:04
6515

6516

LOL Use the Drainage gravel/scoria not the aero bars... lol:p

lefty
3rd April 2011, 14:33
what do you think of blue metal? is it the same stuff as drainage gravel?
http://www.mjrowles.com.au/blue-metal.html

and also rainbow stone - more pricey than blue metal
http://www.selectiveoutdoorsupplies.com.au/l94/stonesgravel/

mraquaponics
3rd April 2011, 15:25
Hi Lefty
Plenty of people do use 'blue metal stones' with success...
BUT
I personaly preffer the drainage gravel. Some places just call it 'scoria' but 'scoria' is usually mostly red in colour... my supplyer has this stuff (see link)

http://www.meltonsandandsoil.com.au/RocksAndScoria.html

Its the light weight, bubbly crushed volcanic rock... looks just like the photo I posted ealier... I just reckon its a bit better...

Wendy in BC
3rd April 2011, 15:52
I like hydrton, but it's studpid expensive. "scoria" or lava rock would be my second choice. For me it's about surface area ......... the bigger, the better. However having said that i would also incorporate lump charcoal into my system (and I have) It binds many impurities.

Psinet
4th April 2011, 10:16
Best solution I have ever seen is Aerolite from a quarry in western Victoria's huge basaltic plains.

It is vesicular basalt aggregate (like the aerobar;)) and very light weight at 740kg per cubic metre.

You can pick up a TONNE of their "Hydroponics mix" for $32!!!!!!! I got a tonne delivered for i think $76.

They have a complete chemical breakdown of their product online: http://www.aerolite.com.au/chemical%20composition.htm

http://www.aerolite.com.au (http://www.aerolite.com.au/)

silloth52
4th April 2011, 14:09
what size and colour did you buy do the colours leech any dyes

Gratilla
5th April 2011, 13:40
Hi all. Pores seem to be popular (scoria, pumice, hydroton, aerolite, charcoal?). I bumped into this doc while googling scoria. (It compares scoria, pumice and rockwool.):

http://quantumgrow.co.nz/site/hydrotech/files/Articles/ScoriaCucumberReport.pdf

I'm in a volcanic area so'll keep an eye out for scoria (or a bubbly look-a-like) in the absence of which I'll try pumice (and maybe rice husks for comparison). Thanks everyone.


i would also incorporate lump charcoal into my system (and I have) It binds many impurities.

How do you mean incorporate? As a separate pre-filter? Mixed in with your main medium or actually as your main medium. Looks interesting as they make (lump) charcoal in this area and I can get large amounts (cheaply).

While on the subject of bubbly volcanic rock, has anyone considered zeolite? It's a class of chemically inert rocks that have the ability to buffer such substances as ammonia.

Peter Webber
5th April 2011, 13:49
I like the clay pebbles. The shape allows good drainage and air supply to the roots. If I decide to take a leaf from Murrays book and try fruit trees in my growbeds, I would change the beds to 20mm gravel to provide support as he has done. Tomatoes and egg plants are tall but grow well in clay beads as long as they are supported. However I am allowing one of my tomato plants grow over the side of the bed to see how well it does.